Diggi House
A few words about our accommodations. Its called Diggi House and its a mere couple hundred years old. Its part of the Maharajah of Jaipur's palace. In these parts, its very well known and is a favorite hide-away for well-heeled Indians. Lots of Europeans, too.
The Maharajah lives here too, along with his extended family. I haven't met him yet, though I see him around. I've met his heir, Tutu, who is a very hospitable gent. We had a nice conversation in which he told us about his arranged marriage, the recent death of his brother-in-law and the funerary customs. And I have met the Maharajah's wife, Lady Jodika, several times as she oversees the whole palace. She's in line to be the matriarch of the family once her mother-in-law moves on. She is a very attractive lady. Most dignified and gracious. She is always there to make sure her guests are comfortable and happy. For example, she heard some of our group was interested in seeing a polo match. The Maharajah just happens to maintain a stable of polo ponies, so she and her husband have just taken some of our group to a polo match he is involved in. I bet they're not sitting in the cheap seats, either.
Yesterday, she invited several of us to see the grand hall where they entertain, hold weddings and ceremonies. The inside Its beautifully painted all over with floral designs in paint made of powdered gem stones. Over two hundred years old and it looks like it was just done. The walls have photos and paintings of the preceding maharajahs going back over several generations. I put a couple pictures of the hall online but they don't do it justice.
While we were in there, Lady Jodika explained what life is like living together in an extended royal family. There is a strict hierarchy and everyone knows their place. When a male relative of her husband enters the room, she will cover her face with her veil as a sign of respect. The women don't speak directly to men other than their husband or to other women of a higher status, unless spoken to. If there is a dispute, the matriarch will hear the complaint and adjudicate it. She said to westerners, this sounds backward, but it maintains an orderly disciplined and harmonious household. She wouldn't have it any other way.
While the Maharajah has no legal power anymore, he still is a man of great influence and a mover and a shaker, politically. He is also a significant land-owner. The palace alone sits on 18 acres in the middle of Jaipur City, which is the capital of Rajastan. You can imagine the real estate value of that alone.
The grounds are kept beautifully. We are completely walled in, and its like an oasis of peace surrounded by the craziness just outside. There is a large lawn in front of the entrance where the guests relax. There are peacocks, parrots and all sorts of birds I've never seen before. I love watching these crazy little squirrels that run all over like maniacs. They don't look like our squirrels, but are more like chipmonks on steroids. One can also stroll around the grounds and see wild monkeys cavorting in the trees. There is also a small dairy where we get our buttermilk (yum) from and of course the polo pony stable. And lots of geckos decorating the walls.
The palace is old, but oddly, not palatial. A palace in those days was also a fort and had to be defensable, so all the walls are thick, the doors and windows small. There are massive gateways that protect the court yards and more gateways to protect the inner court yards. All the guestrooms are unique. Some a large, some are small, but all of them are special. Everywhere, the floor is inlaid marble tile. The architecture is like something out of Ali Babba and the 40 thieves. I could live here. (Kids: sell the furniture). Building codes being unheard of then as now, the plumbing and electrical systems are particularly creative.
And then there is the food. I am ruined for America's Indian restaurants. I used to think I loved Indian food, but, heh, now I know what it really tastes like! Everything is made fresh and from natural ingredients. The food is spiced in such a way that it takes your taste buds several seconds to work their way through the multiple layers of flavors. I can't describe it, you gotta be there.
And coincidentally, dinner awaits. Mmmmmmmm.
Shanti.
The Maharajah lives here too, along with his extended family. I haven't met him yet, though I see him around. I've met his heir, Tutu, who is a very hospitable gent. We had a nice conversation in which he told us about his arranged marriage, the recent death of his brother-in-law and the funerary customs. And I have met the Maharajah's wife, Lady Jodika, several times as she oversees the whole palace. She's in line to be the matriarch of the family once her mother-in-law moves on. She is a very attractive lady. Most dignified and gracious. She is always there to make sure her guests are comfortable and happy. For example, she heard some of our group was interested in seeing a polo match. The Maharajah just happens to maintain a stable of polo ponies, so she and her husband have just taken some of our group to a polo match he is involved in. I bet they're not sitting in the cheap seats, either.
Yesterday, she invited several of us to see the grand hall where they entertain, hold weddings and ceremonies. The inside Its beautifully painted all over with floral designs in paint made of powdered gem stones. Over two hundred years old and it looks like it was just done. The walls have photos and paintings of the preceding maharajahs going back over several generations. I put a couple pictures of the hall online but they don't do it justice.
While we were in there, Lady Jodika explained what life is like living together in an extended royal family. There is a strict hierarchy and everyone knows their place. When a male relative of her husband enters the room, she will cover her face with her veil as a sign of respect. The women don't speak directly to men other than their husband or to other women of a higher status, unless spoken to. If there is a dispute, the matriarch will hear the complaint and adjudicate it. She said to westerners, this sounds backward, but it maintains an orderly disciplined and harmonious household. She wouldn't have it any other way.
While the Maharajah has no legal power anymore, he still is a man of great influence and a mover and a shaker, politically. He is also a significant land-owner. The palace alone sits on 18 acres in the middle of Jaipur City, which is the capital of Rajastan. You can imagine the real estate value of that alone.
The grounds are kept beautifully. We are completely walled in, and its like an oasis of peace surrounded by the craziness just outside. There is a large lawn in front of the entrance where the guests relax. There are peacocks, parrots and all sorts of birds I've never seen before. I love watching these crazy little squirrels that run all over like maniacs. They don't look like our squirrels, but are more like chipmonks on steroids. One can also stroll around the grounds and see wild monkeys cavorting in the trees. There is also a small dairy where we get our buttermilk (yum) from and of course the polo pony stable. And lots of geckos decorating the walls.
The palace is old, but oddly, not palatial. A palace in those days was also a fort and had to be defensable, so all the walls are thick, the doors and windows small. There are massive gateways that protect the court yards and more gateways to protect the inner court yards. All the guestrooms are unique. Some a large, some are small, but all of them are special. Everywhere, the floor is inlaid marble tile. The architecture is like something out of Ali Babba and the 40 thieves. I could live here. (Kids: sell the furniture). Building codes being unheard of then as now, the plumbing and electrical systems are particularly creative.
And then there is the food. I am ruined for America's Indian restaurants. I used to think I loved Indian food, but, heh, now I know what it really tastes like! Everything is made fresh and from natural ingredients. The food is spiced in such a way that it takes your taste buds several seconds to work their way through the multiple layers of flavors. I can't describe it, you gotta be there.
And coincidentally, dinner awaits. Mmmmmmmm.
Shanti.
posted by Rick | 6:14 AM
2 Comments:
Hi Rick,
I thought I had lost this e-mail and searched high and low at home; not work. That is a Duuuhhhhh.
What an experience you are having.
You are going to have to write a book because your daily comments read like a wonderful story - out of a different time (warp). Your pictures are great!
I have a feeling this experience will be life-changing for you and I guess that is what it is supposed to do, right.
Take care and continue to enjoy your time in a "Different World".
I will continue to follow your travels as you continue to write to us.
Say hello to Steven and tell him I am enjoying my new job that I did not want to take; ha, ha. Bonus: I get a Blackberry device all of my own. More about that when you get back.
Hi Uncle Rick. I have really enjoyed reading of your adventure. You have a great writing style. I find myself smiling as I read - I even laughed out loud about the butter and oil treatments!
It sounds like a great adventure. Have fun and keep us posted.
Thanks.
Mike Pellegrino
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